In addition, and significant to this review, the screw holes on this smaller, cheaper model, are relatively smaller in diameter which means, rather obviously, that smaller screws-only can be used for this variant. This frame is deeper than the larger model, at 476mm. A single brace bar either side of the shelf is present. The smaller and cheaper shelf model is very similar to the above but just features the one shelf system, holding a single piece of acrylic of 12mm. Hence, two horizontal bars of the structure sit flush against the wall, secured by a total of six screws (I supplied my own screws, bought from a local tool shop). A set of six screw holes are situated at the rear of the structure, three on an upper bar and three on a lower bar. The basic tubular frame (25mm thick) can be filled with the substance of your choice, if required, to further deaden the structure and reduce resonances. Separating the two upper acrylic slabs are a choice of either four corner steel cones or four bespoke corner cork-based polymer pieces. The upper shelf features another 12mm piece of acrylic positioned in the same manner but then, on top of that is yet another piece of acrylic, a much thicker piece of 25mm. The bottom shelf has a 12mm piece of acrylic suspended on four corner screw mounts that are almost surrounded by the lower frame. The rear of the shelf, the part that sits against the wall, measures 330mm high but the total height of the shelves that protrude into the air spans just 273mm. The larger shelf spans 495mm wide and 457mm deep from the wall out towards you. Restricted wall space will be an issue for some users so here’s a batch of dimensions for you. On either side of the unit are two diagonal brace bars, fixed between the upper and lower levels, four in all. Made from black tubular metal, it holds a turntable on the upper shelf and the deck’s power supply or some other box (phono amp?) on the lower shelf. The first and most expensive is a two layer shelf, created for heavy turntables. Some of the problems where coming from my wooden floor, some were coming from other components, the mains supply, airborne issues and so on. More so when I heard for myself what this stuff does and what my music sounded like when I began to remove it, layer by layer, from my hi-fi chain. The more I learnt about the disruptive noise that populates a typical hi-fi room and muddies sound quality the more alarmed I became. I had another problem too but I only began to realise this when I talked to experts in sound distortion. No matter what I did, however, if a record was playing and I walked across the room, the cartridge would bounce over the grooves like a bucking bronco. I used to have them on a basic wooden table then graduated to a hi-fi rack then moved up the ladder to a complex isolation shelving system. I currently have two working turntables (with more stored away) but the room they are situated in has a suspended wooden floor. I ordered white iron-on melanine edgebanding from Amazon for just under $8, ironed it along the exposed edge, and trimmed off the excess with an xacto knife.Looking to isolate your turntable from vibration and noise? Try a wall shelf. This was the toughest part of the whole thing because it required marking and pre-drilling (as you can see in the photo, I didn't measure well the first time), but didn't take more than 5 min to figure out and complete. I purchased the BESTA drawer frame for $10 and coordinating BESTA soft closing drawer runners for $10/2 pack from IKEA with the hope of somehow hacking it to make a pull out turntable shelf.Īfter spending some time assembling the drawer and inspecting the mechanics, I installed the section of the drawer runner and realized that just the bottom part of the drawer would be enough material for this hack! The size was meant to clip perfectly in the back of the drawer runners and I used one of the included small screws (per side) to attach the shelf-bottom to the bracket from the underside.
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